Expert Answers to Your Home Efficiency Questions

Homeowners see up to 30% off their monthly energy bill after a full attic re-insulation combined with air sealing. Depending on the size of your home and the shape it's in before we start, that translates to hundreds — often thousands — of dollars per year.

R-value measures how well an insulation resists heat flow — the higher the number, the better the insulation. For Southern California attics, the California Energy Commission recommends R-30 as a minimum. R-38 is what we install as our default for a full re-insulation, and colder inland climates can call for R-49. Flooring typically ranges R-13 to R-24.

It depends on the condition of the existing insulation. If it's contaminated with rodents, water, or has broken down, adding more on top just seals in the problem. If it's clean, dry, and just under-installed, layering may work — but never stack batts without removing intermediate vapor barriers, which can trap moisture.

Fiberglass is spun from limestone, silica, soda ash, and glass fibers — inorganic, non-combustible, and inexpensive. Cellulose is recycled newspaper treated with boric acid for fire and pest resistance — organic, higher R-per-inch in blown form, and settles slightly over time. Both are effective; we pick based on the space, budget, and target R-value.

Yes. Insulation slows conductive heat transfer; air sealing stops convective heat transfer (drafts). Without air sealing you can lose 30–50% of the R-value you paid for. We seal ceiling penetrations, top plates, and duct chases before the insulation goes in.

Blown-in fills odd-sized spaces (attic floors with irregular joist bays, retrofit walls) with no gaps. Batts are dimensioned for standard framing (walls, ceilings, crawl spaces). Blown-in is the default for attic floors; batts are the default for exterior walls.

A radiant barrier isn't required, but it's beneficial in SoCal. Insulation slows conductive heat; a radiant barrier reflects radiant heat (sunlight hitting your roof) before it enters the attic in the first place. In our climate, that combination cuts attic temps by 20–30°F on peak days.

Yes — but only if you use insulation specifically designed for it. Roxul (mineral wool spun from volcanic rock and steel slag) is the highest-performing residential soundproofing insulation we install. Standard fiberglass will absorb some sound; Roxul will absorb a lot more.

The attic. Heat rises, and an uninsulated (or under-insulated) attic is where you're bleeding the most conditioned air. After the attic, the next priorities are the crawl space and any exterior-facing walls.

Critical. Ventilation controls how quickly indoor air is exchanged with outdoor air, which prevents mold and mildew from excess moisture, stops radon and CO buildup, and keeps the attic from turning into an oven that bakes the roof deck from below.

Yes. We perform full attic and crawl space cleaning: removal of old contaminated insulation, industrial vacuuming of debris, sanitization, and re-insulation. It's what we recommend anytime rodent activity is present.

Rat proofing — we identify entry points (utility penetrations, foundation gaps, vent screens), seal small holes, cover larger openings with hardware cloth, and reinforce structural weak points. Combined with attic cleanup, it stops the re-infestation cycle.

It depends. Small leaks and joint failures can often be resealed. Damaged, undersized, or contaminated ductwork is sometimes cheaper to replace than to repair. We inspect the whole system and give you both options with numbers.

It depends on your indoor air quality and who lives in the home. If someone has asthma, allergies, or if you have young children or elderly household members, a UV cleanser or air scrubber can measurably reduce airborne pathogens and allergens. For a healthy household in a clean home, it's a nice-to-have.

Yes. Pure Eco performs full home energy audits — we inspect the attic, walls, crawl space, duct system, and air-sealing status, and give you a prioritized report of what will save you the most money for the lowest spend.

Yes. Every well-insulated home is a permanent reduction in energy consumption. Compound that across a neighborhood, and you're looking at real regional impact — less strain on the SoCal grid on 100°F days, lower emissions, and a healthier indoor environment.

Yes. Our team stays current on LADWP, SoCalGas, SoCal Edison, and federal IRA §25C programs. See our Rebates page for what's currently available and how to claim it.

Yes. Every project starts with a free in-home energy consultation — no pressure, no obligation. We serve greater Los Angeles, the San Fernando Valley, and the surrounding communities.

California's Title 24 energy code makes minimum insulation a legal requirement for most homes. Beyond code, it's about comfort — even indoor temperatures, no drafts, quieter rooms, better air quality — and the energy savings that pay the work back over the life of the home.

Four fast tells: (1) your electric bill spikes in summer and winter; (2) rooms above the ceiling plane are noticeably hotter or colder than the rest of the house; (3) you feel drafts around outlets, recessed lights, or attic access; (4) you have (or have had) rodent activity in the attic. If any of these are true, it's worth an inspection.